Engine oil &
oil filter change
Step 2: Drain the oil
- Position a large oil drain pan under the drain plug (Minimum 10 litre, but you're better off with a larger one eg: 13L, 15L or 17L.), then remove the drain plug using a 14mm spanner/socket.
- Allow all the oil to drain into the pan. I suggest letting it drip for at least 15 minutes, to remove as much of the sooty black oil as possible. There's no point doing an oil and oil filter change if you leave half a litre of old oil in there!
Step 3: Remove the old oil filter
- While you're waiting for the sump to drain, remove the retaining clip from the oil filter housing. Do not discard it.
- Fit a new washer to the sump plug and refit the plug, tensioning to 13Nm. Then move the drain pan under the oil filter housing.
- Remove the metal drain cap from the centre of the plastic filter cap, using a 3/8" square drive .
- Put on a pair of disposable gloves, as oil will leak out over your hands when draining the filter housing and removing the filter.
- Insert (push in) the plastic housing drain tube which came with the new oil filter, and wait for the filter housing to drain out before removing (pulling out) the plastic drain tube.
- Loosen the plastic cap using the filter removal tool, combined with either a 27mm socket or a 3/8" square drive. Do not attempt to unscrew the filter cap by hitting it with a hammer or hammer/screwdriver. It will crack.
- Slowly remove the plastic oil filter cap. Note that remaining oil from the filter housing will flow out over your hands as you unscrew the cap.
Step 4: Prepare for the new filter
- Remove the old oil filter cartridge from the filter cap and discard it.
Ensure the perforated metal sleeve running through the centre of the element stays attached to the filter cap. DO NOT remove it and throw it away. If you reinstall the filter without this sleeve in place, it will cause catastrophic engine failure. If you find the sleeve is already missing from previous servicing, then you're lucky your engine has not failed. You MUST order a new one before reassembling the filter and starting the engine.
- Clean the filter cap of old oil.
- Apply some fresh oil to the new small 'O' ring which came with the oil filter, and install both the 'O'ring, and the metal drain cap into the filter cap, as shown in the photo.
- Apply some fresh oil to the new large 'O' ring, and fit it into the slot on the filter cap. See the photo for correct positioning.
- Install the new filter into the filter cap. Double check the position of new 'O'rings, the drain cap and the perforated sleeve.
Step 5: Install the new filter and pour in the new oil
- Screw the assembled filter cap (containing the new filter) back into the housing and tighten to 25Nm using the special tool.
- Refit the metal retaining clip.
- Remove the oil filler cap, and pour in approximately 9 litres of new oil.
- Start the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes, checking the sump plug and oil filter cap for leaks.
- Turn off the engine, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level on the dipstick. Top up and recheck as required to reach the 'FULL' dot on the dipstick.
Step 6: Refit the bash plates
- Refit the bash plate, drain plug cover plate and bullbar trim panel (if fitted). Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. I suggest using a low-mid strength thread locking fluid (eg Loctite 222 or 243) on all bash plate bolts. Don't use high strength/stud lock, as the bolts need to be removed every 10,000km to change the oil and filter.