LandCruiser 200

Fuel Injector Replacement


As with all common-rail diesel engines, the 1VD-FTV V8 uses complex high-pressure fuel injectors.

Although they last longer than the injectors in old diesel engines, they are more expensive and more difficult to replace. Techstream software can give an indication of their condition, but it isn't definitive and it's quite possible that injectors which are showing as OK actually require replacement.

In my case, the injectors were showing as within spec, but the vehicle had been emitting increasing amounts of black smoke. After eliminating other possible causes, I decided to replace the injectors, which solved the problem.

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Replacing the fuel injectors in the LandCruiser 200's 1VD-FTV engine

Make no mistake, replacing the injectors is a complex and major undertaking. It will likely require several days to complete. In my case, it required about 16 hours work from start to finish, which included some extra time to allow for filming each step.

I decided to replace the injectors myself for two reasons: To save money; and to get a better understanding of the components of the engine.

In mid 2022, the parts cost me roughly $4,000. I have included links below to all the parts I installed. Quotes for supply and install varied from $7,000 to $8,500. Now while this is definitely a complicated procedure, I couldn't see $3,500-$4,000 worth of labour. That said, there is potential for problems which could further add to the time and complexity of the replacement. The most common potential problem is the injector seating washers remaining in the head, rather than coming out with the injector. I prepared for this by purchasing a specialised tool before I started work.

With the exception of some of the twin-turbo related components, all of the replacement procedures are the same for the 70-series version of the engine.



The following should not be taken as instructions. It is simply a documenting of the procedure I followed for my own injector replacement. No warranty is provided as to the accuracy of the information, and/or whether it applies in your situation or to your vehicle.

There are many additional checks which take place during routine vehicle servicing. It's not just a 'grease and oil change'. You may not be aware of these checks, which could lead to component failures. I strongly recommend you have your vehicle serviced regularly by a qualified mechanic. If you're not qualified and/or don't have the correct equipment, don't attempt to perform your own vehicle maintenance.

  • There are potentially lethal dangers resulting from the vehicle during the procedure.
  • There are potentially lethal dangers resulting from component failures should the procedure not be followed as per the Toyota Service Manual.
  • There is the potential for expensive vehicle damage from improper  procedures.

If you undertake your own injector replacement, you do so entirely at your own risk.

Links below are eBay affiliate links. If you click on a link and make a purchase, I may be compensated by eBay. The price you pay is unaffected.


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Specialised Tools required:

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1VD-FTV Injector Replacement

Due to the sheer number of steps, I won't be posting the large number of images I usually do. The best way to complete the replacement is to watch the video, and stop/start it as required.
NOTE: LEFT and RIGHT side references: All references to left/right side should be taken from the perspective of looking forward from the driver's seat.

Click to Enlarge

Step 1: Record injector codes

Video timestamp: 1:56

  • Remove all 8 new injectors from their packaging;
  • Put a piece of tape on each injector just below the wiring socket, and number them 1-8;
  • Take a photo of the code printed on the top of each injector;
  • Record this code into a document alongside the respective number of each injector;
  • Keep the photographs as a backup in case of date entry error.

Step 2: Drain the coolant

Video timestamp: 2:23

  • Disconnect the negative cables from both batteries;
  • Ensure the engine is cold and the vehicle is parked on a level surface;
  • Remove the plastic trim panel from above the radiator;
  • Remove the plastic trim from the intercooler;
  • Remove the bash plates/covers under the engine.
  • Remove the radiator cap from the reservoir tank;
  • Place a drain pan (min 10L capacity) under the "radiator drain valve" and loosen the valve;
  • Allow the radiator to drain until the flow stops, then close the valve;
  • Place a drain pan under the "oil filter bracket drain valve" and loosen the valve;
  • Allow the engine to drain until the flow stops, then tighten the valve to 13Nm.

Step 3: Remove the Intercooler

Video timestamp: 3:06

  • Remove the two nuts and lift off the plastic intercooler cover;
  • Remove the front two intercooler mounting nuts;
  • Remove the four nuts on the intercooler outlet flanges;
  • Loosen the two hose clamps on the inlet hoses;
  • Using a 10mm spanner, remove the rear intercooler cover mounting bracket, which will then give access to removing the remaining two 12mm mounting nuts located behind the intercooler;
  • You can then move the intercooler slightly towards the front of the vehicle;
  • Disconnect the MAP and temperature connectors, and the small vacuum hose between the MAP sensor and its filter;
  • With these disconnected, you can remove the intercooler from the vehicle.

Step 3: Remove air intake components

Video timestamp: 4:05

  • Remove the airbox lid, MAF connector and duct.
  • Remove the air tube sub assemblies from either side of the throttle bodies, including the bolt attaching the dipstick to the right hand side;
  • Remove the wiring clips from the inlet air duct, remove the two bolts, loosen the two hoseclamps, and remove the duct;
  • Disconnect the crankcase vent hose or catch can;
  • Remove the left side air duct by removing the retaining bolt, then loosen the hose clamp.
  • Put a rag in both the exposed turbo pipes to stop debris falling in;
  • Loosen the hose clamp at the base of the right side air duct;
  • Remove the retaining bolt and lift the duct out;
  • Moving out to the right -side wheel arch, loosen the hose clamp on the aluminium air pipe, remove the mounting bolt and lower the pipe out of place;
  • As with the left side, block both turbo pipes with rags.

Step 4: Disconnect coolant/heater lines

Video timestamp: 5:17

  • Disconnect the two heater hoses (In models with a rear heater, there will be four hoses);
  • Loosen all the hose clamps on the lines coming off the coolant/heater line assembly;
  • Remove the three mounting bolts and manipulate the assembly off the vehicle.

There are a few options from here. You can do one bank at a time in either order, or both banks at once. I’m listing this in the order I did everything, which was basically making space by moving from side to side as required. I minimised how much disassembly I performed, which reduced total time, but made removing and replacing some components more difficult. Toyota recommend removing more of the wiring from the top of the engine to make more space.

Step 5: Remove wiring, RIGHT bank

Video timestamp: 6:00

  • Remove the bolts holding the wiring harness;
  • Disconnect the injector plugs;
  • Remove the dipstick and disconnect the vent hose;
  • Disconnect the remaining wiring plugs and remove the heavy wire to the glow plugs.

Step 6: Remove fuel lines, vacuum system and electrical connections LEFT bank

Video timestamp: 6:19

  • Remove the crankcase vent and detach the wiring clip;
  • Disconnect the fuel lines running to the fuel filter;
  • Disconnect the fuel return line;
  • Disconnect the rubber fuel line from the #2 metal fuel pipe;
  • Remove the #2 fuel pipe bracket and mounting bolt on the fuel return pipe, undo the banjo connection and remove the pipe. Don’t lose the banjo washers.
  • Tape over all exposed pipes and the exposed flange to prevent contamination;
  • Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the vacuum pump and pipework, disconnect the wiring plug, and remove the vacuum pipe assembly.
  • Remove the wiring loom retaining bolts;
  • Disconnect the assorted retaining clips and electrical connectors on the loom;
  • Disconnect the positive battery cabling and its retaining clips, then pull the cable up and over the motor to get it out of the way.

Step 7: Remove Rocker Covers and injectors (LEFT and RIGHT banks)

Video timestamp: 7:31

Repeat the steps one bank at a time. I began with the right bank.

  • Remove the RIGHT bank throttle body and block with a rag;
  • Remove the clamps that secure the fuel line joining the two rails together;
  • Using a 17mm flange spanner, disconnect the 4x common rail fuel lines from the injectors and the rail. Put a piece of tape over the exposed rail outlets to prevent contamination;
  • With the wiring loom held out of the way, remove the 3 bolts holding the sound deadening material onto the rocker covers, then remove the sound deadening (The sound deadening isn’t present on a 70-series.);
  • Remove the bolts securing the rocker cover to the head;
  • Using a small flat blade screwdriver, remove the four seals on the rocker cover where the fuel lines attach to the injectors;
  • Manipulate the rocker cover off the vehicle.
  • Remove the nozzle leak pipe by removing the union bolts and metal gaskets securing it to each injector, and to the head. The metal gaskets can be discarded as they must be replaced. In my case, the pipe itself twisted slightly when removing the final bolt, so I decided to replace it rather than risk a fuel leak after reassembly;
  • Remove the bolts, washers and clamps securing each injector;
  • Using a 27mm open end spanner, turn each injector slightly to break any binding;
  • Carefully pull each injector straight out of the head. Ensure that the seating washer comes out with each injector;
  • If the seating washer remains in the head you’ll need to use a seat washer removal tool:
      • Avoid the cheap type which includes a loose screw at the bottom of the tool. Use a high quality tapered thread tool such as the Laser 5450. Order this in advance.
      • Insert the tapered thread carefully into the injector hole;
      • Push slightly and turn the tool by hand so the thread bites into the stuck seating washer;
      • Use the built-in slide hammer to unstick the washer, and withdraw the tool with seating washer attached from the head.

WARNING: It is vital that the nozzle leakage pipes seal correctly. This is why it's imperative that the metal gaskets be replaced, and the pipes themselves if they are damaged during removal. It is vital that they be torqued correctly during reassembly. If fuel leaks from these connections, it will flow into the sump. This will dilute the oil and/or cause the vehicle to run on fumes. In either case, it will cause catastrophic engine damage. In the period immediately following an injector change -be it DIY or professional- I recommend regular checks of the oil level. If the oil level increases, suspect a fuel leak and do not operate the vehicle until it has been checked.

WARNING: The gaskets on the nozzle leakage pipes MUST be replaced and the bolts torqued correctly. The pipes (LEFT and RIGHT) must also be replaced if they were damaged during removal. If the nozzle leakage pipes leak diesel, it will run into the sump and dilute the oil, causing catastrophic engine failure.

Step 9: Install new injectors (LEFT and RIGHT banks)

Video timestamp: 12:04

Install into one bank at a time, beginning on the RIGHT bank.

  • Ensure you’re installing the injectors into the correct locations. The 1VD cylinders are numbered as shown in the diagram.
  • Drop a new seating washer into the number 1 injector hole. Visually check it’s positioned correctly. You can use a plastic rod to get it into the correct position if required.
  • Apply a film of fresh oil on to the injector, then carefully slide it down into the head. Give it a small twist back and forth while pushing down on the injector to locate it on the seat;
  • Repeat this procedure for the number 3, 5 and 7 injectors. With the four right-bank injectors in position, loosely reinstall the nozzle clamps, washers and bolts finger tight;
  • Next, loosely reinstall the common rail injector lines, to ensure the injectors are correctly positioned.
  • Install the new gaskets onto the nozzle leakage pipe, and reinstall it loosely into position, doing the union bolts up finger tight;
  • Torque the nozzle clamp bolts to 25 Nm;
  • Remove any temporary marking tapes that you applied to the injectors then remove the common rail fuel lines that were temporarily installed.
  • Re-cover the fuel injector inlets with the plastic caps that came with the injectors, and reapply tape to the common rail fuel outlets to prevent contamination during reassembly;
  • Torque the nozzle leakage pipe bolts to 18Nm. If these hollow bolts are accidentally over-torqued, they must be replaced.
  • REPEAT the above steps on the LEFT bank, using injector 2, 4, 6 and 8.

Step 10: Re-fit rocker covers

Video timestamp: 14:18

  • Put the rocker covers on a firm surface;
  • Knock out the old injector seals by tapping with a taped flat blade screwdriver from the inside of each cover. Use care not to damage the plastic rocker covers;
  • Degrease the covers;
  • Apply some oil to the new injector seals and push them into place from the outside;
  • Install the new rocker cover gaskets in to the covers;
  • Wipe the gasket mating surface on the heads using some wax and grease remover;
  • Apply a small amount of silicone gasket to the four joins in the aluminium casting, and to the corresponding hashed sections on the rocker cover gaskets.
  • Very carefully, manipulate the rocker covers back in to position. As you’re doing this, ensure that the rocker cover gasket remains in place around the entire perimeter. An inspection camera may be useful to check around the rear side of each cover;
  • If required, reapply some silicone gasket to the mating surfaces once the cover is in position. Also ensure that you don’t damage the seals around the injectors;
  • Loosely install the rocker cover retaining bolts, then torque them to 10 Nm, starting at the top centre, followed by the bottom centre, then move around each cover in a clockwise direction.

Step 11: LEFT bank rocker cover assembly

Video timestamp: 15:54

  • Re-fit the crankcase ventilation box and torque the three mounting bolts to 10Nm;
  • Remove the plastic dust caps from the injectors, then apply some oil to the new injector line seals, and push them into the rocker cover;
  • Place a small piece of tape over the line seals to prevent contamination as assembly continues;
  • Manipulate the sound deadening cover back in to position and replace the three retaining bolts;
  • Reconnect the small ventilation hose to the rocker cover;
  • Reinstall the vacuum system, attaching the rubber lines and brackets;
  • Manipulate the wiring to the positive battery terminal back into position and connect it to the battery;
  • Reattach all of the wiring loom brackets to the rocker cover;
  • Re attach the metal fuel pipe assembly running between the fuel filter and the fuel pump;
  • Reinstall the number 2 fuel pipe assembly and reattach the union fitting, torquing the union bolt first and then and the mounting bolts to 10Nm;
  • Attach the rubber fuel line and reattach the hose clamp;
  • Refit the rubber fuel lines between the fuel filter and the metal fuel pipes. Then reattach their hose clamps;
  • Move on to the high pressure common rail fuel lines. Install the four fuel lines loosely into position, screwing each line onto the injector and the fuel rail by hand. Tighten slightly using a 17mm flare nut spanner. Then, using a torque wrench with a flare nut adaptor, torque each line to 31Nm. Note that Toyota recommend replacing the common rail fuel lines after a maximum of 5 uses. If you need to replace the lines, you’ll find the part numbers above.
  • Re attach all of the wiring brackets on the left bank rocker cover, clip the loom on to each bracket, and reconnect all of the wiring connectors on the left bank. Double check to make sure you don’t miss any of the connectors.

Step 12: RIGHT bank rocker cover assembly

Video timestamp: 18:19

  • Clean the gasket facing surfaces then apply silicone gasket to the faces and marked sections on the gasket;
  • Install the rocker cover and fit the retaining bolts. Torque the bolts to 10Nm, starting at the top centre then the bottom centre, then working around in a clockwise direction;
  • Refit the sound deadening cover and the three retaining bolts;
  • Refit the common rail fuel lines, and tighten slightly using a flare nut spanner;
  • Using a torque wrench with a flare nut adaptor, torque the fuel lines to 31 Nm, then refit the fuel line clamps;
  • Reconnect the injector wiring connectors and reattach the retaining bolts to the wiring ducts.

Step 13: Reconnect the heater hoses and cooling lines

Video timestamp: 20:11

  • Refit the heater hose assembly, reattaching each of the attached coolant lines;
  • Install the mounting bolts;
  • Reattach the heater hoses from the firewall to the assembly;
  • Refit all the heater hose clamps.

NOTE: Double check to ensure that you don’t miss any of the hose connections or leave off any of the hose clamps, or you’ll end up with a coolant leak.

Step 14: Refit the throttle bodies and air ducts

Video timestamp: 20:36

  • Remove the rags blocking the intakes;
  • Refit the two throttle bodies, and torque the nuts and bolts to 21Nm;
  • Reconnect the two wiring connectors to each of the throttle bodies;
  • Remove the rags from the right and left side intake air ducts, then refit the ducts and their mounting bolts. Tighten the hose clamps joining the duct sections;
  • Refit the main air intake duct (splitter) and its mounting bolts. Tighten the hose clamps connecting the left and right ducts to the main duct/splitter;
  • Run the thermostat wiring back across the duct and connect it to the thermostat;
  • Remove the rag, then refit the aluminium turbo pipe from the right side wheelarch, refit its mounting bolt and tighten the hose clamps;
  • Refit the two intercooler air tubes and tighten their hose clamps;
  • Refit and attach the dipstick bracket;
  • Reinstall the dipstick;
  • Attach the MAF wiring clip to the dipstick bracket.

Step 15: Refit the intercooler and prime the fuel system

Video timestamp: 22:08

  • Sit the intercooler just in front of its final location, then reconnect the vacuum hose between the sensor and the filter, followed by the black MAP sensor plug and the grey intake air temperature plug;
  • Move the intercooler back into its correct location, lining up the outlet flanges;
  • Slip the inlet pipes into the rubber hoses and tighten the hose clamps;.
  • Refit the four intercooler mounting nuts and the four nuts on the intercooler outlet flanges and torque them to 21Nm;
  • Refit the rear intercooler cover bracket and torque to 9Nm;
  • Don't refit the plastic trim cover yet;
  • Move over to the fuel system primer located on top of the fuel filter, and pump the plunger for a few minutes, until it becomes hard to press. Note that you may need to repeat this procedure if the vehicle stalls after you start it.

Step 16: Enter the Injector Compensation Values into the ECU

Video Timestamp: 23:03

  • Reconnect the battery terminals;
  • Connect your laptop to the OBDII port, located under the dash below the steering column;
  • Turn on the ignition and launch the Techstream software, then click on “Connect to Vehicle”;
  • Choose the correct vehicle from the popup menus, then click “Next”.
  • Click “Engine” in the following table, then on the next screen click “Utility”. Once the options come up, click on “Injector Compensation”;
  • Click Next to proceed, then choose “Set compensation value”, followed by clicking “Next”;
  • Select “Cylinder Number 1”, click Next;
  • Return to your document, and copy the value entered for cylinder 1, ignoring the + sign at the end. Return to techstream and paste the data into the entry field, then click Next. If you get a warning that the process has failed, click “try again” and repeat the paste. If this keeps happening, double-check the connection to the vehicle.
  • If you get a warning that the code entered is incorrect, double-check for errors in your data entry. Correct any error and continue;
  • Repeat this procedure for all 8 injector values;
  • Once complete, go back and confirm the entries are correct by choosing “read injector value” for each injector, then compare your original data to what has been entered;
  • Once checked, you can turn off the ignition, disconnect the laptop from the vehicle and exit the Techstream software;
  • Wait 30 seconds before turning the ignition back on and clearing the check engine light or fault code if applicable.

Step 17: Refill the coolant

Video timestamp: 25:18

  • Remove the engine air bleed cap and attach a clear hose to the pipe;
  • Using a 3/8" drive ratchet, remove the radiator vent plug;
  • Fill the reservoir tank with coolant until it reaches the filler neck. Note: Filling will be a slow process as the level approaches the top of the reservoir. You may have to leave it for a few minutes and gradually continue to top up the tank several times. 
  • As the coolant level nears the top of the reservoir, occasionally squeeze the top radiator hose to help remove air bubbles from the system;
  • Once coolant emerges from the engine bleed valve (into the clear tube), remove the tube and replace the engine air bleed cap;
  • Replace the radiator vent plug. Torque this to only 2Nm. Warning: Over-tightening this plug will cause it to break, If this happens, they are quite cheap and available online.
  • Replace the radiator reservoir cap.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Wearing a glove, and avoiding the engine fan and belt, squeeze the top radiator hose repeatedly to bleed air from the system;
  • If the coolant level drops in the reservoir, turn off the engine, allow it to cool, then top it back up to the filler neck, then start the engine again.

At this point, you need to bring the engine up to full operating temperature. Toyota suggest running the engine at 3000rpm for 10 minutes with the vehicle stationary. Personally, I decided to go for a short drive instead, returning once the Ultragauge showed ~80ºC.

  • Stop the engine and allow the coolant to cool back to ambient temperature. The coolant level in the reservoir should fall. Ensure the level sits between the low and full lines. Top up or drain the coolant as required.

Step 18: Completion / Troubleshooting

  • Check thoroughly for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks;
  • Refit the intercooler trim;
  • Refit the radiator trim with the 7 clips;
  • If you break or lose any of the trim clips, you can find the correct ones on eBay or Amazon.
  • Refit the bash plates, and bullbar trim panel (if fitted). Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. I suggest using a low-mid strength thread locking fluid (eg Loctite 222 or 243) on all bash plate bolts. Don't use high strength/stud lock, as the bolts need to be removed every 10,000km to change the oil and filter.
  • Monitor the oil level regularly in the week following the injector replacement. If the engine oil level is increasing, suspect a fuel leak from the nozzle leakage pipes (ref step #9). This could cause catastrophic engine failure due to dilution of oil. You must not continue to run the engine until the issue has been found and rectified.

If the engine does not start or stalls immediately:

  • Repeat the fuel pump priming procedure. If this continues to happen, check for fuel leaks.

If there are engine trouble codes/warning lights:

  • Ensure all sensors are properly reconnected.
  • Read the fault code using a ultragauge/scangauge/code reader, and check to see what the fault code relates to. This will help trace the problem.

If performance is poor but there are no fault codes/warning lights:

  • Check the small vacuum hose between the MAP sensor and filter. It is likely damaged or disconnected.

If the engine is running rough:

  • Double-check you entered the injector compensation codes correctly and for the correctly-placed injector. Refer to your original photos of each injector if unsure.

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