Narva 12-circuit

Accessory Fusebox

LandCruiser 200

Step-by-Step installation

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Why install an accessory fusebox?

With many electrical accessories required for a touring build, a great place to start is with the installation of an accessory fusebox. This will facilitate the addition of all your future electrical accessories.

Starting with a "fresh slate" vehicle provides an opportunity to really get things neat, tidy and reliable as accessories are added. I've used a Narva 54450 fuse box, but there are smaller and larger options available.

The 54450 has two separate sections rated at 120 amps each, with six circuits in each section rated at a maximum of 30 amps each. I've powered one section straight from the 200's standard second battery through a 100A circuit breaker and the other through a 70A fuse and relay controlled by accessory power. This allows the fusebox to provide 6 circuits which are 'always on', and another six that come on with the 'Accessory' key position.

I mounted the fusebox adjacent to the firewall on the driver's side, using a custom-made bracket which bolts up to existing nuts in the front guard. There are diagrams for making the bracket below.

IMPORTANT

The "Installation" section should not be taken as instructions. It is simply a documenting of the procedure I followed for my own installation. No warranty is provided as to the accuracy of the information, and/or whether it applies in your situation or to your vehicle. If you're not qualified and/or don't have the correct equipment, get the accessory fusebox fitted professionally.

There are potentially lethal dangers if incorrect wiring or installation procedures cause a fire.
There is the potential for expensive vehicle and accessory damage from improper installation.

If you undertake your own accessory fusebox installation, you do so entirely at your own risk.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

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A Narva 54450 accessory fusebox
A 100A waterproof circuit breaker
3m of 6AWG cable
A 70A relay
A Maxi-fuse holder and fuse OR a 70A circuit breaker
6x heavy-duty crimp connectors

Assorted crimp connectors
A min. 60W soldering iron and solder
2x 6mm x 20mm metric bolts
Heat shrink tube
Quality Electrical tape (3M or Nitto)
A custom mounting bracket (see below for design)
Thread locking fluid (eg Loctite 243 or 263)

Narva fusebox Installation

Click to Enlarge

Fabricate a mounting bracket:

Download and print the diagram to create a mounting bracket for the fusebox. It's made from 3x20mm steel bar, which is cut, drilled, folded and welded to produce the final product. If you'd rather not make your own bracket, take the diagram to any metalwork shop and they'll be able to fabricate it for you.

Mount the fusebox:

Mount the fusebox in position as shown, using 2 6x20mm bolts into existing mounting holes found on the guard, between the airbox and the firewall.

Wire the fusebox:

The fusebox can be wired in several different ways. I decided to split it into two banks, with 6 circuits powered direct from the battery, and the other 6 tripped by Accessory power. This is accomplished as follows:

Run a 6AWG cable from the positive terminal of the battery to a 100 amp circuit breaker, mounted as close to the battery as possible. I mounted mine to the air entry duct of the airbox, using an existing bolt. Then run 6AWG cable from the circuit breaker to the power-in terminal for the left side of the accessory fusebox. This step powers the battery side of the fusebox. See the wiring diagram for details.
Run 6AWG cable from the positive battery terminal to a 70-amp relay. This wire needs to run through either a 70amp circuit breaker, or a maxi-blade fuseholder with a maximum 70A fuse. The reason for the 70A limit in this circuit is because 70A is the maximum rating relay which is readily available. Then run a 6AWG cable from the relay to the power-in terminal of the fusebox. Complete the wiring of the relay as per the wiring diagram.
There are several places to find an accessory-tripped power source. I used the rear of the dash power outlet, next to the ashtray.

It's good practise to solder all joins, then use heat-shrink tubing over the joins. Running all wiring inside split tubing, and securing it well with cable ties, will prevent shorts down the track, caused by wires being damages after the constant vibration of driving on corrugated roads.

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