Fabricate a mounting bracket:
Download and print the diagram to create a mounting bracket for the fusebox. It's made from 3x20mm steel bar, which is cut, drilled, folded and welded to produce the final product. If you'd rather not make your own bracket, take the diagram to any metalwork shop and they'll be able to fabricate it for you.
Wire the fusebox:
The fusebox can be wired in several different ways. I decided to split it into two banks, with 6 circuits powered direct from the battery, and the other 6 tripped by Accessory power. This is accomplished as follows:
- Run a 6AWG cable from the positive terminal of the battery to a 100 amp circuit breaker, mounted as close to the battery as possible. I mounted mine to the air entry duct of the airbox, using an existing bolt. Then run 6AWG cable from the circuit breaker to the power-in terminal for the left side of the accessory fusebox. This step powers the battery side of the fusebox. See the wiring diagram for details.
- Run 6AWG cable from the positive battery terminal to a 70-amp relay. This wire needs to run through either a 70amp circuit breaker, or a maxi-blade fuseholder with a maximum 70A fuse. The reason for the 70A limit in this circuit is because 70A is the maximum rating relay which is readily available. Then run a 6AWG cable from the relay to the power-in terminal of the fusebox. Complete the wiring of the relay as per the wiring diagram.
- There are several places to find an accessory-tripped power source. I used the rear of the dash power outlet, next to the ashtray.
It's good practise to solder all joins, then use heat-shrink tubing over the joins. Running all wiring inside split tubing, and securing it well with cable ties, will prevent shorts down the track, caused by wires being damages after the constant vibration of driving on corrugated roads.