Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000
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Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000
1x SPOT, 1x SPREAD
1x SPOT, 1x SPREAD
Indicative lux comparison @200m
Indicative lux comparison @500m
Step 1: Run wire from the lights to the relay, mount the relay
- Find a suitable location for your relay. I used a stackable relay block bolted to the inner guard next the the airbox.
- Run twin 10AWG (5mm2) cable from the relay out to the lights, and solder it to the Fyrlyt plug.
- Connect the positive light wire to pin 87 of the relay, and the negative light wire to either the negative battery terminal, or a good earth point on the body/chassis.
- Run a light (~1mm2) wire from pin 86 of the relay to an existing body earth point.
Step 2: Mount the transformers to a mounting bracket
- The transformers are water resistant, but it's probably not a good idea to mount them where they'll constantly be exposed to water and the weather (like behind the grille or in the bullbar).
- They do fit nicely between the right side headlight and the battery.
- I mounted the transformers to a basic L shaped piece of aluminium (see photo in the next step), with the terminals facing down once it's in position. No need to drill any holes to attach the bracket, as it will be held in place by the battery once it's back in position.
Step 3: Wire the lights
- Because of the high current draw of these lights, and the twin transformers, the best way to install them is to make each light a separate circuit.
- Solder the supplied light connectors onto some 10AWG (5.3mm2) or larger twin-core cable, and run from the each light mounting point to the transformer location. Connect each light to the 'output' side of its transformer.
- Again using 10AWG (5.3mm2) or larger twin-core cable, run wires from the 'input' side of each transformer back to your relay location.
Step 4: Run the wire from high-beam to the switch, and back to the relay. Mount the switch.
- Find the positive high-beam wire on the back of the headlight. It is probably coloured red with silver writing.
- Tap into it then run a light (~1mm2) wire from here to the power-in terminal of your dash switch.
- Run another ~1mm2 wire back from the power out terminal of the switch to pin 85 of the relay.
- Tip: Use a double-insulated twin cable instead of two seperate cables. It makes it neater and easier to run.
- Tip: Run the cable through the nipples provided on the Toyota wiring grommets. Just cut the end off, then reseal with a cable tie. See photo.
- Mount the dash switch. To be consistant with my previous installs, I'm using a Carling LED switch available from Mudstuff, which does require some cutting at the back of the switch plates. However, AOB now produce a series of push on/off switches that fit perfectly into the 200's blank switch plates.
Step 5: Mount and wire the relays
- Using 10AWG (5.3mm2) or larger cable, run a pair of wires from the positive battery terminal, via a maxi-blade fuse holder, to pin 30 of each relay. Don't install the fuses yet.
- Connect the rest of the wires to the relays, as per the wiring diagram.
- Mount the relays. The easy way to do this is using stackable relay mounting bases, which can be mounted to an existing bolt on the inner guard, just next to the airbox.
Step 7: Mount the Fyrlyt Nemesis driving lights
- Using the provided bolts, mount the alloy bases to the bullbar. Tighten them, but not so far that they can't be adjusted.
- Mount the lights to the brackets using the provided allen-key bolt (AKA cap screw). Again, tighten them just enough so that they hold in place but can still be adjusted.
- Connect the wiring plugs.
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