LandCruiser 200
Engine oil &
oil filter change
Step-by-Step
Choosing engine oil for the LandCruiser 200
When the LandCruiser 200 was initially released, Toyota recommended a typical 15w40 diesel oil. After some problems with oil consumption, this recommendation was changed to 5W30/40. Despite what a few old-school workshops say about these modern thinner oils, they are recommended by Toyota for a reason: Because they are the best oils for this engine. I recommend following Toyota's own specifications rather than those of one or two small workshops with little technical experience in the design of modern CRD engines like the 1VD.
Many of the quality oil manufacturers offer a semi (or fully) synthetic 5W40 diesel oil in lieu of 5W30. A 5W40 oil is thinner than 15W40 at low temperatures (ie startup), so offers easier starting and better flow for improved startup lubrication. But it is exactly the same viscosity as 15W40 at 100ºC, so works just as well in high Australian temperatures once the engine warms up.
Bottom line: 5W40 oil is better than 15W40 at startup, and the same as 15W40 at operating temperatures. It's a win-win.
Note that the VDJ200's 2016 facelift added diesel particulate filters, and a different (DPF compatible) oil is required for these models.
A full oil and oil filter change in the LandCruiser 200 requires 9.2 litres, so I recommend buying oil in at least 10 litre drums for the best value. There are links below to buy each oil on eBay, or they are available at any decent supplier such as Supercheap, Autobarn or Repco. Dont forget to grab a new gasket/washer for the sump plug. They are available on eBay in packs of 10 for under $10.
After experimenting with various oils myself over the last few years, and also speaking to oil manufacturers, I recommend any of the following engine oils for the diesel 200-series:
Oil for 2007-2015 models (non DPF) - Find on eBay:
Oil for post-2015 models (with DPF) - Find on eBay:
- Penrite Enviro+ (5W40 fully-synthetic) - warm climates
- Penrite Enviro+ (0W30 fully synthetic) - cool climates
Choosing an oil filter
Just as important as quality oil is a quality oil filter. Why would you risk a $30,000 engine to save $10 on a brandless oil filter with no guarantee of its filtration performance or manufacturing quality standards?
I strongly recommend you use only premium-quality filters, where manufacturing facilities meet ISO9001. Brands that meet these standards include Ryco or Baldwin, Fleetguard, or of course genuine Toyota filters.
IMPORTANT
The following should not be taken as instructions. It is simply a documenting of the procedure I followed for my own servicing and maintenance. No warranty is provided as to the accuracy of the information, and/or whether it applies in your situation or to your vehicle.
There are many additional checks which take place during routine vehicle servicing. It's not just a 'grease and oil change'. You may not be aware of these checks, which could lead to component failures. I strongly recommend you have your vehicle serviced regularly by a qualified mechanic. If you're not qualified and/or don't have the correct equipment, don't attempt to perform your own vehicle maintenance.
- There are potentially lethal dangers resulting from the vehicle during the procedure.
- There are potentially lethal dangers resulting from component failures which would ordinarily be checked during routine servicing.
- There is the potential for expensive vehicle damage from improper servicing procedures.
If you undertake your own servicing, you do so entirely at your own risk.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
Links below are eBay affiliate links. If you click on a link and make a purchase, I may be compensated by eBay. The price you pay is unaffected.
- A 64.5mm/14 flute Toyota oil filter removal tool. Depending on your budget, a cheaper generic version, or higher quality SP Tools or Omik.
- 10, 12 and 14mm sockets (24/27mm optional).
- A 3/8" square drive ratchet or bar.
LandCruiser 200 Oil and oil filter change
Click to Enlarge
Step 1: Access the oil filter and sump drain plug
- Remove bullbar trim plate (if fitted).
- Remove the RIGHT (Driver's) side front factory front bash plate;
- Remove the small access cover for the sump drain plug.
Step 2: Drain the oil
- Position a large oil drain pan under the drain plug (Minimum 10 litre, but you're better off with a larger one eg: 13L, 15L or 17L.), then remove the drain plug using a 14mm spanner/socket.
- Allow all the oil to drain into the pan. I suggest letting it drip for at least 15 minutes, to remove as much of the sooty black oil as possible. There's no point doing an oil and oil filter change if you leave half a litre of old oil in there!
Step 3: Remove the old oil filter
- While you're waiting for the sump to drain, remove the retaining clip from the oil filter housing. Do not discard it.
- Fit a new washer to the sump plug and refit the plug, tensioning to 13Nm. Then move the drain pan under the oil filter housing.
- Remove the metal drain cap from the centre of the plastic filter cap, using a 3/8" square drive .
- Put on a pair of disposable gloves, as oil will leak out over your hands when draining the filter housing and removing the filter.
- Insert (push in) the plastic housing drain tube which came with the new oil filter, and wait for the filter housing to drain out before removing (pulling out) the plastic drain tube.
- Loosen the plastic cap using the filter removal tool, combined with either a 27mm socket or a 3/8" square drive. Do not attempt to unscrew the filter cap by hitting it with a hammer or hammer/screwdriver. It will crack.
- Slowly remove the plastic oil filter cap. Note that remaining oil from the filter housing will flow out over your hands as you unscrew the cap.
Step 4: Prepare for the new filter
- Remove the old oil filter cartridge from the filter cap and discard it.
Ensure the perforated metal sleeve running through the centre of the element stays attached to the filter cap. DO NOT remove it and throw it away. If you reinstall the filter without this sleeve in place, it will cause catastrophic engine failure. If you find the sleeve is already missing from previous servicing, then you're lucky your engine has not failed. You MUST order a new one before reassembling the filter and starting the engine.
- Clean the filter cap of old oil.
- Apply some fresh oil to the new small 'O' ring which came with the oil filter, and install both the 'O'ring, and the metal drain cap into the filter cap, as shown in the photo.
- Apply some fresh oil to the new large 'O' ring, and fit it into the slot on the filter cap. See the photo for correct positioning.
- Install the new filter into the filter cap. Double check the position of new 'O'rings, the drain cap and the perforated sleeve.
Step 5: Install the new filter and pour in the new oil
- Screw the assembled filter cap (containing the new filter) back into the housing and tighten to 25Nm using the special tool.
- Refit the metal retaining clip.
- Remove the oil filler cap, and pour in approximately 9 litres of new oil.
- Start the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes, checking the sump plug and oil filter cap for leaks.
- Turn off the engine, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level on the dipstick. Top up and recheck as required to reach the 'FULL' dot on the dipstick.
Step 6: Refit the bash plates
- Refit the bash plate, drain plug cover plate and bullbar trim panel (if fitted). Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. I suggest using a low-mid strength thread locking fluid (eg Loctite 222 or 243
)
on all bash plate bolts. Don't use high strength/stud lock, as the bolts need to be removed every 10,000km to change the oil and filter.