The Long Ranger
Long Ranger supply comprehensive installation instructions with the tank. I followed these instructions in the video above and found them to be accurate, so I'll only add a few tips below.
Note: Unless otherwise stated, I used loctite on ALL bolts during the installation, adding additional security to cope with vibration.
Step 8: Disconnect the rear three exhaust mounts
- The three mounts (in order of removal) are located:
- Just in front of the rear diff, behind the main muffler;
- Just behind the rear diff, in front of the small muffler;
- Near the tailpipe just behind the small muffler.
- The rubber mounts can be levered off their mounting pins with a screwdriver. You may need to apply some WD40-type spray if the mounting pins are rusted or stuck.
Step 11: Disconnect breathers and fuel hoses
- You can disconnect the fast fill breather and fill lines from the steel pipes that come down from the filler neck. Access them from under the right rear sill.
- Next, detach the 2x 6mm breathers (coded pink and green) from the steel pipes that run along the floor, just in front of the tank and crossmember. Ensure factory colour coding is still visible, otherwise mark the lines and steel pipes before removal.
- Then detach the 3x 8mm fuel lines from the steel pipes. They are colour-coded (from left-right of vehicle) Yellow, White, Blue. Again, if the colour coding isn't visible, mark the lines and steel pipes before removal.
- Finally, disconnect the fast fill breather from the steel pipe.
If the lines are hard to disconnect, grip them with pliars and twist on the steel pipe, to help them release.
Step 13-14: Connect the fuel lines
- Using the shorter piece of new 8mm fuel hose, along with existing clamps, make a loop between the two right-side steel fuel pipes (coloured blue and white).
- Connect the longer piece of new 8mm fuel hose along with an existing clamp, to the left-side steel pipe (coloured yellow). Run it over the crossmember and let it hang.
Step 16: Cut rear tyre support bracket from chassis
- Long Ranger advise that you only need to remove the small protruding bracket from the main tube, in case you ever want to revert to the standard tank and spare tyre location. But I chose to remove the entire bracket from the rear crossmember as I can't think of any reason why I (or anyone) would want to do that!
- As with the floor ribs, a recip saw works well for the cuts, and they must be painted afterwards.
Step 17: Run sender wiring along floor rib
- You can use the existing clips on the sender wiring, but you will have to reposition them along the cable to match existing hole locations along the floor rib.
- Try to leave as much slack at the plug end as possible, as this will make reconnection to the sender easier.
Step 19: Fit new float arm
- Replacing the float arm is a little fiddly. There are several holes that need to be aligned for it to clip in. Try to hold the moving parts of the sender unit still as you remove the existing float arm and install the new one.
- Check the correct hole positions so that the float arm points directly backwards in the tank, as shown in the photo.
Steps 21-22: Transfer breathers to the Long Ranger tank
- Remove the 2x 6mm system breathers from the old tank and fit them to the new tank. Ensure you install them in the same relevant positions (Pink right, Green left). Use the existing spring clips.
- Remove the existing fast-fill breather to 160mm and fit it to the new Long Ranger fuel tank using the existing spring clamp.
Steps 23, 30: Connect fast-fill breather and filler hose
- Long Ranger specify that the new fast fill breather line should be connected to the filler neck steel pipe in step 23, but I found it easier to connect it at the same time as the filler hose is connected to the Long Ranger tank and steel pipe.
- Make sure you trim the 60mm off the tank-end of the filler hose, not the pipe end.