- If your 200 has KDSS, then release the two shutter valves 3 turns.
- Raise the vehicle so the rear wheels are off the ground, and support it on chassis stands. Leave the jack under the diff centre, so you can raise and lower the axle as required during the installation.
- Remove both rear wheels, and place them under the chassis for extra safety when you're working under the vehicle.
- Remove the springs from each side, complete with the internal bump stops. You then need to cut the bump stops to the appropriate length for the #4164 air springs, as per the photo:
- For Standard suspension, cut off 4 segments;
- For 20-50mm lifted suspension (eg: Tough Dog, OME, Lovells etc), cut off three segments;
- For 60-75mm lifted suspension (eg: ICON, Fox etc), use #4129 airbags instead of #4164, and cut off three segments.
Ensure you remove any burrs from the cut edge of the bump stop.
Using shorter or longer airbags:
- Work out where you plan to mount the fill valves, or (as in my case) the AOB control panel. In my case, the AOB panel is located within the jack storage area in the lower-right of the load area.
- Cut the included air line tubing to suit the location of the valves/panel and the routing of the air lines. I cut the airline so the left side was 1/2 metre longer than the right.
- Thread the other ends of the airlines up through the chassis spring-locating holes on each side, then re-insert the spring-bumpstop-airbag assemblies into position, ensuring they are properly located at both the top and the bottom.
- Lift the axle back up on the jack, and reconnect the breather hose, brake line bracket, shock absorbers and sway bar mounts. Use Loctite on all the nuts and bolts.
- Refit the wheels and lower the vehicle back to the ground.
Tighten the KDSS shutter valves
- Run the air lines to the location of the control panel/fill valves, ensuring you cable-tie them regularly and keep them away from sharp edges and the exhaust.
- In my case, I ran the hose from the left side across the cross-member just behind the axle, until it met the other air line. Then ran them together along the right side chassis rail towards the rear of the vehicle, then up through a slit in the existing wiring grommet into the jack storage area.
- Put a band of red electrical tape around the "right" side hose, so once the lines are together it's simple to identify which hose belongs to which side.
- Ensure you seal the slit cut in the wiring grommet with some silicone or polymer sealant.
- If you're using the AOB control panel and on-board compressor, then run an airline from the compressor/reservoir to the control panel location.
- You can then connect all the airlines to the panel:
- Connect the line from the reservoir/compressor to the air inlet T piece.
- Connect the airlines from the bags to the included T pieces at the rear of the paddle switches.
- Note that I added another pair of T pieces so that the bags can also be inflated/deflated via the original tyre inflation valves. This is a handy backup in case the on board compressor fails.
Air leaks and adding shutoff valves:
The only drawback of the control panel is that adding so many fittings to the system makes air leaks far more likely. Instead of there being just two potential leaking fittings per bag with the standard tyre valves, the addition of the control panel means that each bag line has nine potential leak points.
Because the bags don't hold a large volume of air, even a very small leak can be an issue and I found it impossible to totally eliminate leaks. To overcome this, I added a manual shutoff valve in each bag's airline, between the bags and the first fitting for the control panel. This drops each bag line back to two potential leak points. The valves are usually left closed, and only opened when I want to inflate/deflate or check the bag pressures.
The valves are available on special order from Pirtek or Enzed for about $40 each (Yes, this seems excessive!). Note that all the fittings and airlines in the system are 1/4" imperial, not 6mm metric.